Updated: July 24, 2025

Using manure in your garden is a time-honored tradition that enriches soil, improves plant health, and boosts crop yields. However, fresh manure can harbor harmful pathogens, weed seeds, and high levels of ammonia or salts that can damage plants. Proper preparation of manure before applying it to your garden is essential to ensure it is safe and effective. This article will guide you through the steps and best practices for preparing manure for safe garden use.

Why Use Manure in the Garden?

Manure is a rich source of organic matter and nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. It helps:

  • Improve soil structure and aeration
  • Increase water retention
  • Enhance microbial activity
  • Provide slow-release nutrients to plants

Despite these benefits, raw manure can be harmful if not handled properly. It may contain:

  • Human pathogens like E. coli, Salmonella, and Listeria
  • Weed seeds that can germinate in your garden
  • Excessive salts or ammonia that can burn plants
  • Nutrients in forms that are too strong for young seedlings

Properly prepared manure minimizes these risks while maximizing its benefits.

Types of Manure Commonly Used in Gardens

Before we discuss preparation methods, it’s helpful to know the common types of manure used in gardening:

  • Cow manure: Common and widely available; relatively low in nitrogen.
  • Horse manure: Often contains more weed seeds; nitrogen content varies with bedding material.
  • Chicken manure: Very high in nitrogen; must be composted well to avoid burning plants.
  • Sheep and goat manure: Nutrient-rich but usually less bulky than cow or horse manure.
  • Rabbit manure: Unique because it can be used fresh or composted; low odor and high nutrient content.

Each type requires attention to how it’s prepared before application.

Step 1: Collecting and Handling Manure Safely

Safety begins at collection. Always use gloves when handling fresh manure and wash hands thoroughly afterward to avoid exposure to pathogens.

If possible, source your manure from healthy animals that have not been recently treated with antibiotics or chemical dewormers which might affect soil life.

Avoid using manure from animals fed on chemically treated feed or pasture sprayed with herbicides as some chemicals persist in manure.

Collect manure that is free from excessive bedding material such as wood shavings containing resins or oils toxic to plants.

Step 2: Choosing Your Preparation Method

There are several ways to prepare manure for garden use:

Composting

Composting is the most recommended method as it stabilizes nutrients, kills pathogens, reduces weed seeds, and transforms raw manure into a nutrient-rich soil amendment.

How to compost manure:

  1. Build a pile or use a bin: Create a pile at least 3 feet wide by 3 feet tall to maintain heat during decomposition. Alternatively, use compost bins or tumblers.

  2. Mix with carbon materials: Combine manure (high in nitrogen) with carbon-rich materials like straw, dry leaves, or shredded paper at a ratio of about 1 part manure to 2 parts carbon by volume.

  3. Maintain moisture: The pile should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge, damp but not soggy.

  4. Turn regularly: Aerate by turning the pile every 1-2 weeks to supply oxygen and evenly distribute heat.

  5. Monitor temperature: Ideal compost piles reach between 130degF (54degC) and 160degF (71degC), which kills most pathogens and weed seeds within days.

  6. Composting duration: Usually takes 3-6 months depending on conditions; mature compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, earthy smelling, and cool.

Aging (Curing)

Aging involves storing raw manure in a heap or pile for several months without active management until it breaks down naturally.

It is less reliable than composting because pathogen kill rates are lower without sustained heat generation.

Aging time typically ranges from 6 months up to a year.

Vermicomposting

Using worms (usually red wigglers) to process manure produces worm castings rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes.

Manure must be well-aged before feeding to worms because fresh manure can burn them due to high ammonia levels.

Vermicomposting is suitable for small-scale gardeners focused on high-quality amendment rather than bulk application.

Direct Application (with Caution)

Applying fresh or raw manure directly onto gardens is risky due to pathogen presence and nutrient burn potential. If done:

  • Only apply well before planting, ideally at least 120 days prior if vegetables are grown for human consumption.
  • Avoid contact with edible plant parts.
  • Incorporate the manure into the soil promptly.
  • Do not use raw chicken manure directly on plants without composting first.

Step 3: Testing Manure Quality

Before application, testing your prepared manure can help ensure safety:

  • Temperature logs during composting: Confirm that the pile reached pathogen-killing temperatures above 131degF (55degC) for at least three consecutive days.
  • Visual inspection: No foul odors indicating anaerobic conditions; look for uniform texture.
  • pH testing: Mature compost usually has near-neutral pH (6-8).
  • Laboratory testing: For commercial or large-scale operations, send samples for pathogen analysis and nutrient profiling.

Step 4: Applying Manure Safely in the Garden

Once prepared properly, here are tips on how to apply manure safely:

  • Timing: Apply finished composted or aged manure in fall or early spring so nutrients integrate before planting season.
  • Application rate: Generally, apply 20-40 pounds per 100 square feet depending on soil fertility needs.
  • Incorporation: Mix into the top 6-8 inches of soil rather than leaving on surface to reduce runoff risk.
  • Avoid overapplication: Excessive nitrogen can harm plants and lead to nutrient leaching.
  • Wait period before planting: For composted manures, you can typically plant immediately; for aged but not fully composted manures allow about 30 days.
  • Avoid direct contact with edible parts if using any fresh or partially decomposed manures on food crops.

Additional Tips for Safe Manure Use

  • Rotate types of manure if possible to balance nutrient profiles.
  • Consider local regulations regarding manure application near water bodies.
  • Store unused prepared manure covered and in a dry place to prevent nutrient loss.
  • Use gloves when applying prepared manure amendments.
  • Consider blending commercial fertilizers with organic amendments if specific nutrient needs arise.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Manure smells bad after composting

This usually indicates anaerobic conditions. Turn the pile more frequently and add dry carbon materials like straw or leaves.

Manure attracts flies or pests

Cover piles with tarps or straw layers after turning; keep piles away from living areas.

Seedlings burned after application

Likely due to fresh or improperly composted manure high in ammonia/nitrogen; ensure thorough composting before use next time.

Weeds sprouting from applied manure

Indicates incomplete decomposition allowing weed seeds survival; increase composting time/temperature next cycle.

Conclusion

Manure is an excellent resource for enriching your garden’s soil when prepared properly. Composting remains the safest and most effective method for preparing manure by reducing pathogens, breaking down weed seeds, stabilizing nutrients, and creating a balanced organic amendment suitable for all garden plants including edibles.

By following proper collection methods, selecting appropriate preparation techniques like composting or aging, testing quality indicators, and applying thoughtfully according to best practices outlined above, you can enjoy healthy plants and improved harvests safely while minimizing risks associated with raw manures.

With patience and care invested in preparing your garden’s “black gold,” your soil will thank you season after season with increased fertility, structure, and vitality!

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