Updated: July 19, 2025

Creating a beautiful garden often involves more than just planting flowers and shrubs. The finishing touches, such as stone edging, can dramatically enhance the appearance of flower beds. Mortaring stone edging is a durable and attractive way to define your garden spaces, prevent soil erosion, and add a polished look to your landscape. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the entire process of mortaring stone edging for flower beds — from preparation to finishing touches.

Why Choose Mortared Stone Edging?

Before diving into the process, it’s important to understand why mortared stone edging is a preferred choice over other types of edging:

  • Durability: Mortar bonds stones together firmly, forming a stable barrier that resists shifting or sinking.
  • Aesthetic Appeal: Mortared stones provide a clean, uniform look that can be customized with different stone types and colors.
  • Erosion Control: The solid structure helps hold soil in place during heavy rains.
  • Low Maintenance: Once set, mortared stone borders require little upkeep.

While the initial labor may be more intensive than loose stone or plastic edging, the longevity and professional finish make mortared stone edging worthwhile.

Materials and Tools Needed

Before starting your project, gather the following materials and tools:

Materials

  • Natural or manufactured stones (flagstone, fieldstone, limestone, etc.)
  • Type N or S mortar mix
  • Sand or gravel base material
  • Water
  • Landscaping fabric (optional)

Tools

  • Shovel
  • Tape measure
  • String line and stakes
  • Level (spirit level)
  • Trowel
  • Pointing tool or margin trowel
  • Wheelbarrow or mixing tub for mortar
  • Rubber mallet
  • Gloves and safety glasses
  • Bucket for water
  • Brush for cleaning stones

With these at hand, you’re ready to begin.

Step 1: Planning and Design

Start by deciding where your flower bed edging will go. Use stakes and string to mark the boundary clearly. Measure the length of your desired edging to estimate how many stones and how much mortar you will need.

Consider the style and height of stone edging you want. Common heights are between 6 to 12 inches. Keep in mind that taller walls require more mortar strength and possibly additional support such as reinforcement rods.

Step 2: Excavating the Trench

The stability of your mortared stone edging depends heavily on a proper foundation.

  1. Mark the trench: Using your string line as a guide, outline where the trench will be dug.
  2. Dig the trench: Excavate a trench roughly 6 inches wide and about 8 to 10 inches deep. The depth includes room for both the base material (sand or gravel) and part of the stones buried below ground level.
  3. Level the bottom: Ensure the trench bottom is flat and slopes slightly away from the flower bed (about 1/8 inch per foot) to encourage water drainage away from plants.

If drainage is a concern in your area, laying landscaping fabric at the bottom of the trench can help prevent weeds while allowing water flow.

Step 3: Preparing the Base

A solid base minimizes settling or shifting.

  1. Add base material: Pour in about 2 to 3 inches of compactable gravel or coarse sand.
  2. Compact: Use a tamper or simply press down firmly with your foot to create an even surface.
  3. Level again: Use a level to confirm an even base aligned with your desired slope.

This base layer provides drainage and support under your stone wall.

Step 4: Mixing Mortar

Mortar is generally prepared by mixing mortar mix with water according to package instructions. For stone edging around flower beds, Type N mortar is suitable due to its good balance between strength and flexibility.

  1. Mix small batches: Use a wheelbarrow or mixing tub; add water gradually until you achieve a thick but workable consistency similar to peanut butter.
  2. Avoid dry or runny mixes: Too dry won’t bond well, too wet will weaken once cured.
  3. Keep mortar covered: When not in use, cover mortar with plastic sheeting to prevent drying out prematurely.

Always wear gloves when handling mortar because it can irritate skin.

Step 5: Laying the First Course of Stones

The first layer is critical since it sets the foundation for all subsequent layers.

  1. Apply mortar bed: Using a trowel, spread about 1 inch of mortar along the trench bottom where stones will sit.
  2. Set stones: Press each stone firmly into the mortar bed, tapping gently with a rubber mallet so it’s level with adjacent stones.
  3. Check alignment: Continuously check with your level horizontally and vertically to maintain uniform height.
  4. Leave space for joints: Maintain consistent spacing (usually about ½ inch) between stones for mortar joints.
  5. Fill joints: Use mortar from your trowel to fill gaps between stones before it sets too hard.

Take your time during this step; an uneven first course will cause problems as you build upward.

Step 6: Building Up Additional Courses

Once the first course has been laid:

  1. Apply mortar on top of first course stones as well as in joints.
  2. Stagger joints: Offset vertical joints like brickwork so they don’t line up directly over those below; this improves stability.
  3. Place next course stones: Set stones on top pressing into mortar bed and against adjacent stones.
  4. Keep checking levels frequently to maintain flat horizontal courses.
  5. Continue layering courses until desired height is reached.

Mortar should be applied both beneath each stone and in joints for maximum adhesion.

Step 7: Finishing Joints

After laying all courses:

  1. Wait until mortar firm up slightly but still soft enough to shape (usually after about one hour).
  2. Use a pointing tool or rounded stick to smooth and shape mortar joints between stones; this prevents water penetration and improves appearance.
  3. Clean excess mortar off stone faces with a damp brush before it hardens completely.
  4. Allow wall to cure undisturbed for at least 24 hours; keep moist if weather conditions are very hot or dry by misting lightly with water occasionally.

Step 8: Backfilling and Planting

Once mortar has cured sufficiently:

  1. Backfill soil behind the stone edge carefully without disturbing it.
  2. Tamp soil lightly to reduce settling but avoid pressing against wall forcefully.
  3. Add mulch or decorative ground cover inside flower bed if desired.
  4. Plant flowers or shrubs along edge as planned.

Your new mortared stone edging now provides a neat boundary that enhances your landscape design.

Tips for Success

  • Select stones of similar thickness for easier leveling.
  • Work on small sections at a time before mortar sets too hard.
  • Clean tools regularly during work to avoid hardened residue buildup.
  • Consider incorporating drainage holes if wall height exceeds one foot.
  • Wear protective gear when mixing and applying mortar.

Conclusion

Mortaring stone edging around flower beds requires patience, careful preparation, and attention to detail — but it yields a stunning result that adds character, durability, and definition to any garden space. With proper planning, quality materials, and methodical work steps outlined here, you can successfully create professional-looking stone borders that stand the test of time while making your flower beds truly shine.

Start small if you’re new to masonry work; gain confidence with one side before tackling large perimeter walls. Above all else — enjoy transforming your outdoor space into an inviting retreat framed by beautiful mortared stone edges!

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